Flash Photography

How To Avoid “Deer In The Headlight” Lighting With Your On-Camera Flash

This post is written by Guest Contributor, Janet Ochs Lowenbach. If you are also interested in writing a guest blog, please reach out using the form in the Contact page.

There are lots of names for what an on-camera flash does to a subject:  Flash in the pan.  Powder in the face.  Deer in the headlights. They all mean the same thing, according to Duane Heaton, Sales Manager of Penn Camera in Rockville Pike, MD. “A small, on-camera flash provides very stark lighting conditions with harsh shadows, and it is very limited in the quality of lighting it provides; sometimes when the flash is so close to the lens, it produces red eye. Using an off-camera flash allows you to be more creative.”

Further, because of the digital camera’s inability to see a wide exposure latitude, you want to use a diffused flash (off camera) as much as possible to fill in the extremes of exposure. (To explain this example, film has an exposure latitude of 1:7, while digital cameras have an exposure latitude of 1:4.)

“When you add a second or even third light off the camera, you soften the light and the shadows, and minimize the extremes of exposure.” Heaton adds. “They give very directional light as well as energy to the scene.”

Nikon SB-900

Nikon SB-900

Placement of the off-camera flash depends on what effects you want to achieve. A nice portrait effect results from placing the off-camera light 45 degrees from the subject, where it produces that classic upside-down triangle on the cheek when the subject is looking at you.

Heaton says there is no single brand flash that is better than another. “Canon, Olympus, and Nikon flashes are all good and each is synchronized with its own brand of cameras. Nikon and Canon have been industry leaders for years because of the sheer size of their companies, and now Sony is getting it to the mix,” he adds.

You can use a flash that is wired to the camera, but with the latest technology, you can use a remote, either a generic radio remote or a wireless one specifically designed for working with your flash. Each of these will permit you to place your flash away from the camera and give you more flexibility.

The radio remote works up to a distance of 400 feet, but requires you to adjust the flash manually. A wireless system permits you to control each flash through the unit, with a TTL system that lets you make adjustments from the unit, without moving to it.

The key to the flexibility is, Heaton says, the fact that, “The popular pop-up flash can be used as a command flash that controls the off-camera flash or flashes. The pop-up can take on many different roles including acting as a fill or being solely in the commander mode with no effect on exposure.”

Heaton says you can use more than one off camera flash as long as you know how to control the light and the camera settings so that the camera and the flash talk to each other.

“The system is proprietary, or a closed loop, says Heaton.  So, you have to use Nikon flashes with a Nikon camera, a Canon flash with a Canon camera, etc.

Perhaps the hardest part of using flash in the TTP mode is the manual. You have to learn how to make the camera and the flashes talk to each other, but since the manuals are translated from the Japanese, they are often difficult to follow.  “Nikons are menu driven and very intricate; you have to know what button to push and this is hard to translate in a manual from the Japanese. There is an even greater problem with digital cameras.”

Heaton and his colleague at Penn give hands-on training in flash use. He also says there are many opportunities outside the store for classes and one-on-one training. The problems with manuals, he says has expanded the opportunities for teaching and education.

Nikon CLS Vs PocketWizard

There are two ways to control the remote flash units from your camera. One is using wired connection (using Nikon 4765 SC-28 for example) between the camera and the flash units and other one is wireless method to communicate between the camera and the flash unit. With the increase popularity of wireless technology, wired technology are rarely used these days. Also, wired technology is limited with the distance if you want to experiment with the distance and the angle of the flash units. In addition to that we have got lots of choices with wireless technology and can choose one of the many options available in the market. You just have to decide what you want to do and what you want to achieve and get the kind of device that works best for you. In today's post, we are going to talk about two wireless technologies which are dominantly popular and they are Nikon CLS (Creative Lighting System) and PocketWizard. Let's discuss what are the benefits of using one to another.

Nikon CLS Vs PocketWizard

There are some photographers who think CLS Vs PocketWizard is like Nikon Vs Cannon debate and they have their own arguments about these two devices. I am not thinking of taking side of any technology or equipment and will try to describe these technologies by doing simple comparison with different perspectives and it’s up to you to decide which technology works best for you.

Nikon SB-800

Nikon SB-800

1. Equipment cost

As of today, if you want to buy the complete set (FlexTT5, MiniTT1 and 804-709 AC3 Zone Controller) of PocketWizard to seamlessly control your flash units remotely, it costs around $497.00 on Amazon. And if you want to buy the Nikon flash units with CLS technology, SB-600 costs you around $320.00 and SB-900 costs you around $499.00. You do not have to buy a transmitter for SB-600 or SB-900 to work if your camera has a commander mode. Your camera's built-in flash can act as a transmitter when it is set to commander mode.

That means you will be spending extra money on PW if you already have the camera capable of controlling the CLS flash units remotely. But that investment worth every penny if you need an extra feature like extra distance range between the flash units and the camera or working in various angles which we will discuss next.

PocketWizard

PocketWizard

2. Working Range

If you plan not to put your flash units farther than 30 feet from your camera (adjusting angle to reach an infrared signal from the camera), it would be a wise decision not to invest money on PW. But if you are planning to play with different angle of lights and place the flash units farther than 30 feet, PW is the way to go. It gives solid control over the great distance. When used as a transmitter, the FlexTT5 can provide TTL auto flash at distances of up to 800 feet and conventional triggering up to 1200 feet with the aid of a flip-up antenna.

3. Control

Nikon CLS system has a limitation of distance but you can control the remote flash units from the camera whereas today’s PW can go up to 800 feet and works great with an auto FP high speed sync and iTTL mode. Nikon CLS systems are an infrared system and that is the reason many photographers argue that it doesn’t work if the unit falls into the direct sun light. Nikon CLS system works great if the distance and the working angle matches with the camera (line-of-sight) from where it transmits an infrared signal to the remote flash units. But PW works on radio signal and can reach up to 1600 feet.

Nikon CLS systems and PW both work great in an auto FP high speed sync mode and supports iTTL mode. So it is just a matter of the distance and the working angle whether you want to use the CLS technology or buy the PW system.

4. Compatibility

Nikon CLS system only works with the Nikon’s compatible flash units whereas PW works with any kind of system. If you have any flash units other than the Nikon, you can use PW to communicate between your Nikon body and the third party flash unit. All you have to do is, slide MiniTT1 into the hot shoe of the camera and slide your flash units into the hot shoe of FlexTT5. It is very reliable piece of technology and works great.

Note: Nikon CLS is not a device but technology built inside Nikon's advanced flash units like SB-600, SB-700, SB-800 and SB-900 which is used to communicate between the Nikon camera and the flash units.

Understanding Flash's Guide Number (GN)

Guide Number, usually abbreviated GN, determines power rating of flash unit that describes how powerful flash unit is and how far it can shoot. In another word, GN specifies the power of an electronic flash in a way that it can be used to determine the right f-stop to use at a particular shooting distance and ISO setting. GN is mainly used to calculate how your camera’s aperture should be set to get proper flash light. When there were no automatic flash units available for photographers, they used to do a manual calculation using the GN and the distance of the subject from the flash unit. GN is usually given in reference of ISO value 100. For example, Nikon D90's built-in flash has a Guide Number of 12 meters or 39 feet at ISO 100 in auto mode (i-TTL). And in Manual mode, it has a Guide Number of 13 meters or 43 feet. GN is slightly less in i-TTL mode than in Manual mode because it spends energy to fire pre-flashes before the main flash goes off (to meter correct amount of the light for the subject). Basically, to determine the right exposure at any given ISO settings, you would divide the guide number by the distance to get appropriate f-stop. We can write the mathematical formula as,

Aperture = GN / Distance

Using D90’s built-in flash as an example, at ISO 100 with its GN of 43 feet in Manual mode, if you wanted to shoot a subject at a distance of 10 feet, you would use f/4.3 (43 divided by 10), or close to this value in practice. Similarly if subject is at 5 feet, an f-stop value f/8 would be used to get proper exposure. But in practical, we may need to increase the ISO few stops to adjust with f-stop and the distance of the subject.

When we are talking about the Guide Number, we didn’t mention about the Shutter speed and we only talked about the Aperture. It is very important to remember that Shutter speed controls the brightness of the ambient light and Aperture controls the amount of light from the flash. We use Guide Number calculation to help control the flash exposure. Today, GN is mostly used for comparing the power of various flash units, rather than actually calculating the exposure value to use. You don’t need to be a math genius to see that an electronic flash with a GN in feet of, say 98 at ISO 100 (like the SB-600) would be a lot more powerful than the Nikon D90’s built-in flash. Using that GN as a reference, Nikon SB-600 allows you to shoot up to 22 feet using f/4.5 at ISO 100 easily.

Please refer to your flash user manual to get the exact GN value.